PRIENE

Steps to the city

The heartland of the Ionian cities was the valley of the Maeander (modern Menderes) River, the largest and most important river of Western Asia Minor.  It's oft changing course gave us the word "meander".  Priene, one of the twelve cities of the Ionian League, is believed to have been settled by Greeks before 1000 BC. at the mouth of this river.  As much as the river contributed to trade and fertility of the soil through its annual flooding, it proved to be a curse to Priene.  Nothing of the first Priene has ever been found, buried deep under the silt. A new foundation, high on the slopes of Mt. Mycale, was chosen due to the diminished harbor from years of silt carried to the sea.  Priene was never a large city, 4-6,000 free citizens, nor did it play a large role in the politics of the age and by the 6th century, due to the unusable harbor, the city dwindled away.  However, Priene had a reputation for accomplishment; a well built, beautiful city and one of the best examples of a Hellenistic city. 

Views to Gullubache from the bottom of the stairs.

The agora, or shopping area, near the houses.

The Temple of Athena, 4th century BC, is the most impressive achievement of Ionian architecture, with commanding views of the river valley below.  The architect, Pytheos, wrote a book about the temple and it was used as a textbook by architects throughout the Mediterranean.  There are 5 columns restored and by the number of "parts" remaining to be restored, it is easy to see how impressive it must have been in its day.


 

 

















There was not much information about the Byzantine church, other than it was the largest in the City and was built of used stones from other areas.  It and the gymnasium stretched the length and beyond of the staging area of the Theater.

 

















The Roman Theater, 3rd century BC,  a smaller, horseshoe shaped structure, held approximately 6500 people and is built into the hill.  The horseshoe shape allowed plenty of room for the orchestra and chorus.  Seats around the orchestra area were for the nobles of the city.  The altar at the center was dedicated to the god Dionysus.  The theater also served for political meetings and would have contained a water clock to time the speeches.  The stage and dressing areas were separate from the theater, allowing for larger productions.

View to the theater from the stage location

The entrance

Theater climbing the hill












Altar and seats for noblemen with view toward the stage area.  The theater is a the top of the hill and the city continues down the hill, with the Church just beyond this theater.

 The nobleman, "Thomas of Turkey".  You never know where he will turn up

The views in every direction from the top of the city: further up the hills; the Maeander River meandering through the farmland; old 
farm building; dairy loafing/milking sheds

'Thomas of Turkey' again, on the way down

After being the only persons exploring Priene, we were about the only persons having lunch at this interesting restaurant, built around the ruins of a Byzantine aqueduct.  A shady spot, the sound of the waterfall, ducks for entertainment, good food and good company. 

Unfortunately, we don't always behave for the camera!!

Onyx is mined in several locations around Turkey and there are substantial reserves, from black, grey, pinks, browns.  One location being around Lake Bafa, about 2 km from Priene.  One of the sons of the shop owner gave us a little tour and it was a chance for him to practice his English.  There were 3 brothers who worked in this shop, all with a different job; his job, polishing the objects his brothers created.
Now, off the mountain and down to the sea, to see what we can see.