DATCA PENINSULA

The narrow Datca Peninsula (Datcha), pointing West from Marmaris, is 70 km long and lies at the place where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Aegean Sea.  It is claimed that the climate is perfect and the air is rich in oxygen, thanks to the prevailing winds and the mixing of salinity levels and current patterns in the seas.  Strabon of Cappadocia (56BC-21AD), an early philosopher and geographer, one of the first to relate climate to health, said "God sends his subjects to whom He wants to give long and healthy lives to Datca".  It might not be far from wrong, as it is just about as perfect an area as one could find.

The route along the spine of the peninsula from Maramis is narrow and twisty, with dramatic and panoramic views of the two seas, as the road drops down to Datca, the village.  The peninsula has a very real Turkish feel with few foreign visitors.  Picturesque coves with sparkling waters (more than 50), pine forests intermingled with oak, myrtle, gum and carob trees, almond, olive and citrus groves, grapevines, vegetables and herbs are all there to be discovered within the mountains, valleys and plains called the Datca Peninsula.

The area is famous for honey, almonds and fish, or as the Turks say, "the 3 B's - bal, badem, balik".  We spent one day discovering only a small portion of this beautiful land, and even the ever changing weather from sun, to cloud, to rain, did not mask the magic it held.  There will definitely be more trips to this area in our future. 

Marmaris is the entry to this paradise peninsula (actually, there are two peninsulas out of Marmaris, the Datca and the Bozburun; we have only visited the one).  It is a tourist's haven, with a natural harbor (Lord Nelson organized his fleet for the attack on the French here in 1798), gulet cruises (tall ships), charter boats,  ferry trips to the island of Rhodes, Greece, and abundant night life.  Whatever your fancy, Marmaris has it, but for a quieter, more peaceful experience, then head deeper onto the peninsula.

Views of Marmaris and the harbor

Out of Marmaris, the road makes a dramatic ascent to the top of the mountains before dropping to Datca, a fishing village built around a horseshoe bay.  It is a popular spot for wind surfers because of the blustery winds.  Our encounter with this seaside village was in the dark, after exploring to the end of the peninsula.  We stopped there for a fresh fish dinner; the restaurant of choice being the DutDibi Restaurant (meaning "under the mulberry tree"), which offered outside dining next to the beach, a delicious meal, and a charming host/owner.  We are looking forward to returning to Datca to enjoy the views by day and we will definitely return to the DutDibi Restaurant.

Our first glimpse of the Aegean Sea.  The weather was not going to cooperate.

Bencik, the narrowest point of the peninsula, 2,600 ft wide.  Locals used to call it "the place where the fish pass over".  The Mediterranean Sea to the left and the Aegean Sea to the right.

Just before dropping into the village of Datca, we came across a series of windmills, with the modern day wind turbines in the distance.  Didn't take us long to figure out how to get up to them and investigate.  One appeared to be used as some sort of a tea house/restaurant in the "high" season, one appeared to be used as some sort of housing, and the others just added to the scenery.

And what is inside, you might ask?  Well, all sorts of things, from steps, to fig trees, to people.

View from the windmills; this man was sitting along side the road from the windmills, with his reeds, weaving this basket.  Think he wasn't too sure of the photo op.

 After dropping down into a plain area around Datca, we continued up, up, through very tiny villages, with very narrow roads, more views of the sea and orchards, and a descent to the tip of the peninsula and the ancient city of  Knidos.

Ocean views, orchard views, hundreds of bee boxes up and down the peninsula; the long and winding road that led eventually to Knidos.

Knidos, the terraced city at the very tip of the Datca Peninsula, was one of the most prosperous Dorian port cities of antiquity, having 2 harbors, one for warships and one for merchants (400 BC).  Ships in ancient times often had to wait at Knidos for the winds to change to continue their journey.  This gave the city good business opportunities in ship repair, trade (especially wine and olive oil), and hospitality. It was also the site of the worlds second most important medical school.  The ship taking St. Paul to Rome for trial was held up in Knidos.  The ruins are undergoing major renovations, as the town was abandoned after Arab raids and 2 major earthquakes.  However, there are clear remains of the Temple of Apollo and the statue of Aphrodite, a sundial, an amphitheater, and several churches amidst the 3 km stretch of ruins.  Being on the tip of the peninsula, Knidos offers beautiful views of the lighthouse and both the Mediterranean and Aegean Seas.

 

Views of both harbors, one with a luxury yacht, the other with working fishing boats

A hydrofoil going to Datca from the island of Kos, Greece (in the background) or the Bodrum Peninsula of Turkey

Terraced houses; Greek inscription

Amphitheater; one of several roads

Entrance to Temple of Apollo; altar; part of the statue of Aphrodite; piece of temple

Pieces of the Corinthian Temple; site/ruins of Doric Church; Sundial

Lighthouse at the tip of the Datca Peninsula where the Mediterranean and Aegean Seas meet

The Guesthouse at Olive Farm

Our accommodation for the night was The Guest House at the Olive Farm, just out of Datca.  We saw multiple advertising billboards about the business along the way and pulled in to check it out.  We instantly fell in love with everything about the Olive Farm, and reserved a room for the night.  It was then Geoff realized he had left Dalyan without his passport.  The owner of the previous hotel had failed to return the passport and we had failed to check it off our list as well (common practice for them to copy or keep the passport, especially if you are only there for one night, as a means of identification).  The desk clerk at Olive Farm did the required phoning to locate the passport and to cancel and remake our reservations in Ephesus.  Needless to say, the next day began with a trip back to Dalyan and then on to Ephesus.

The Olive Farm is a 400 acre working farm and mill, producing all products olive from eating olives, olive oils, infused olive oil and vinegars, natural care products, olive wood products, all sold at the Mill Store located just down from the Guest House as well as available online.  There are citrus orchards as well as herb and vegetable gardens, and chickens.  They produce or grow, organically, almost everything they use in the restaurant, with the balance being supplied by the local village and farms.  The Olive Farm was started by an American couple from Portland, Oregon some years ago, but is now owned and operated by a family from Istanbul.  The Guest House was added just a year ago.  If you find yourself in Turkey, and on the Datca Peninsula,  and are looking for a totally relaxing, peaceful getaway, the Guest House at the Olive Farm comes highly recommended.  

The "evil or bad eye" - a whole other story, but in a nutshell, to keep safe; an ancient olive tree in the center of the reception; everything about Olive Farm is natural; they used things from nature as the decorations, simple, yet beautiful

Views around the property: top left is a house that is available to rent for large gatherings and right is the back of the owner's  house; bottom left is the building housing the guest rooms and the right is one of the "suites", more like a small apartment, that will accommodate a family

Our room exterior: patio, entry and architectural aspects

Inside our room, very different from the night before, but not too different in price.  The hair care products they supply were amazing for a curly hair girl.

The Turkish breakfast spread; the bread was made in the local village and contained carnation flowers

The yard area outside the rooms and reception; perfect for relaxing

A walk in the gardens: flower gardens, orange/lemon groves, herb/kitchen garden, and of course olive trees every where

The pool area, totally surrounded by gardens

A walk to the Mill Store with olive groves on either side and a pen of ponies

The Mill Store gardens with old olive jars and press

The view of the mountains, and in the first one, all the way to the sea, as the morning "woke up"

And now, it is off to Ephesus and more of our journey into the past.