EPHESUS, THE OLD CITY

Ephesus (Efes), the best preserved classical city in the eastern Mediterranean, is the place to go to imagine what life might have been like in Roman times.  Most of the remains are 1st and 2nd Century AD.  

The port city of Ancient Ephesus was a Greek city in about 1000BC, then a trading city under the Lydians and Carians, a center for the cult of Cybele, the fertility Goddess.  Then came the Ionians and Cybele became Artemis, Goddess of the hunt and the moon.  The city as we see it today was founded in the 4th century BC by Alexander the Great, but it was the Romans who took over and made this area part of the providence of Asia.  Artemis became Diana and Ephesus became the Roman provincial capital of Asia, a banking and trade center for the east.  Despite the fame of Diana, Ephesus soon acquired a sizable Christian congregation and became a religious center for early Christianity.  St. John settled here with Mary, the mother of Jesus, and St. Paul lived here for 3 years, until the decline of the Romans.  Ephesus began it's decline when all efforts to stop the harbor from silting and diverting the river failed, ruining it as a major port city.  However, it was the location of the Basilica of St. John by Emperor Justinian in the 6th century to Ayasuluk Hill that led to the dwindling of Ephesus as a major city.

It is said if you want to experience Ephesus as the city it was, with around 500,000 inhabitants, noisy, congested, frustrating, hot, come in summer, about mid-day.  We were there in early November, and I would have to say that was about the perfect time....it was crowded enough then.  We entered the site from the South Entrance and worked our way downhill, towards the North Entrance.   The total length of the historical site is approximately 3km. 

TOMB OF ST. LUKE

 The Apostle Luke, born in Antioch, a student of Greek Philosophy, medicine and art, follower of Jesus Christ, and wrote the Gospel of St. Luke and Acts of the Apostles.  He was a patron of the medical profession and the arts.  At 84 he was hanged for his religious beliefs in Thebes, Greece.  His symbol was the bull, the 3rd symbolical beast mentioned by Ezekiel, which is a symbol of Christ's sacrificial and priestly office.  This location, in Ephesus, is believed to be the grave site of St. Luke because of the Bull carved into the door.

ROMAN BASILICA COLONNADES

 A Roman Basilica referred to a large roofed hall, used for transacting business and legal matters.  They contained interior colonnades to divide the space.  This basilica had a nave, 3 aisles and 3 gates opening to the Baths of Varius.  It was destroyed by an earthquake in the 4th century AD.

ODEUM THEATER 

 The Odeum Theater, with a stage building, seating for 1500 spectators, and an orchestra, had a double function, first as a meeting place of the Senate and second as a concert hall.  It was constructed in the 2nd century AD by 2 wealthy Ephesus citizens.  It was originally enclosed with a wooden roof.  This photo was taken on the road coming from Mary's House.

 Other views, including the entrance to the upper level.

IMPERIAL CULT TEMPLES

 There were two temples next to the Odeum called Imperial Cult, erected in 1st century AD, in honor of Rome and Julius Caesar.  This "cult" never became a religion, but was more a form of flattery towards emperors. 

PRYTANEION

  

 The Prytaneion held religious ceremonies, official receptions and banquets.  There was a sacred flame that continuously burned in the ceremonial hall, symbolizing the heart of Ephesus.  During excavation of this site, 2 statues of the Goddess Artemis were recovered (now housed in the museum in Selcuk).  They suspect they were buried by a secret worshiper of Artemis to hide them from the Christians.

RELIEFS

  Just a couple of the amazing carved statues, columns, stones waiting to be "put together" or "placed" where they belong.

DOMITIAN TEMPLE

  The Domitian Temple is the anchor of the Domitian Square.  It is the first structure in Ephesus to be dedicated to an emperor.  The stairs to the second story are visible behind the columns.  When Emperor Domitian became unpopular and was subsequently killed by his servant, the temple was re-dedicated to his father, Vespasian.

RESIDENTIAL QUARTERS

 These are remains of housing of the "common citizen" of Ephesus.  The elaborate marble, mosaic and fresco houses of the wealthy are under cover, as they are in an ongoing state of restoration and are a separate tour, saved for the next trip.

TOMB OF POLLIO

 

   C.S. Pollio was a rich Ephesian who constructed the Pollio Fountains.  The water was brought from 3 different water sources via aqueducts and distributed to fountains by a branch system of baked clay pipes.

CURETES WAY

 Cuertes Way, one of the three main streets of Ephesus, between The Hercules Gate and the Celsus Library.  Some information says it obtains it's name from young men who protect by frightening away danger; others say it was the name of an order of priests.  There were fountains, monuments, statutes and shops lining the street.  Many of the shops were 2 storied and damaged by multiple earthquakes.  After an earthquake in the 4th century, the columns were replaced by others brought in from around the city, and the mismatched columns remain the same today.  The terraced houses of the rich Ephesians were on the slopes, built over the shops, so they were always protected from the weather.


GATE OF HERCULES

 The Hercules Gate, at the end of Cuertes Way, gets it's name from the relief of Hercules on the columns.  Hercules was the god of power and strength.  Only the two side columns remain today, the remainder of the gate never being found.  The columns were brought to this location in the 4th century AD, but the reliefs date to the 2nd century AD.  This gate narrowed the access to the street, preventing any vehicle traffic, making it solely a pedestrian area.


FOUNTAIN OF TRAJAN

 Of the colossal statue built in honor of the Emperor Trajan, only one foot, resting on the world, now remains.  You can just imagine the size of the statue judging by the size of this foot.  The Fountain of Trajan was a pool, 20X10 meters, surrounded by columns and statues of gods and goddesses, as well as his own family.  These statues are now on display in the Ephesus Museum.

SCHOLASTICA BATHS

 

 The Baths of Scholastica (2nd century AD) were named after a Christian lady (Scholastica) who remodeled them in the 4th century.  Her headless statue presides over the entrance.  The inscription indicates the baths also served as the town brothel.  The baths have 2 entrances, 10 dressing rooms, a cold room with pool, warm room to relax, and finally the hot room.  The second floor  was used for scrubbing and massage.  The bath area was not only for bathing, but also so socialize and discus topics of the day.  The custom of the Roman baths continued during the the Byzantine era and into the Ottoman era, where it reached it's highest dimensions.  Traditional Turkish Baths and Massage continue today in hundreds of hamams across Turkey.  We have yet to experience this piece of history past, but have been told they are wonderful and not to be missed. 


TEMPLE OF HADRIAN

 The Temple of Hadrian was built before 138AD and dedicated to Emperor Hadrian upon his visit from Greece.  It is the best preserved structure on Curetes Way.  There are 4 Corinthian columns supporting an arch which contains a relief of the goddess of victory.  The pedestals are bases for statues of 4 previous Emperors.  The statues have not been found.  Inside the temple, above the door, Medusa stands holding ornaments of leaves, to keep evil spirits out.  On both sides are copies of friezes depicting  the story of the founding of Ephesus.  The originals are in the museum.

LATRINES

 The Latrine was part of the Scholastica Bath. They were the public toilets of the city and there was an entrance fee to use them.  There is a pool in the center and approximately 30 toilets aligned along the walls.  The columns surrounding the pool supported a wooden roof.  They had quite a sophisticated drainage system under the toilets, with water constantly running to keep it clean.  And of course, you have to sit on one just to "get the feel".  Rather cold, but if you have the right seat, you could have a lovely view.  Hard to imagine using these public facilities.

HADRIAN'S GATE

   Hadrian's Gate is located at the junction of of Curetes Way and Marble Road.  It is said to have been 3 stories, with 3 entrances on the first story.

CELSUS LIBRARY

  The Celsus Library, the third richest library of ancient times, was erected in 110AD in honor of Celsus Polemaeanus, a Roman Governor of Asia Minor, by his son.  After his death in 114AD, he was buried, in a lead coffin, under the western side of the library, in the grave chamber.  The three story reading room of the library held 12,000 scrolls, kept in cupboards in niches  around the walls.  A gap between the inner and outer walls helped protect the books from weather extremes.  Architectural slight of hand was used to make the library look larger than it actually was.  The base of the marble facade is convex, adding height to the central elements; the central columns are larger than those at the ends.  Niches on the facade hold statues representing the virtues of Goodness, Thought, Knowledge and Wisdom, the virtues Celsus is said to have possessed.  

AUGUSTUS GATE

 The Augustus Gate was built in 40AD for Emperor Augustus by two slaves he had freed.  The 3 vaulted passageways are made of black marble on one side and white on the other.   There is still a Latin inscription inlaid in bronze visible on one side.  The small area in front of the gate was used as an auditorium, the steps in front of the library used as seats.

MARBLE ROAD OR SACRED WAY

 This photo taken from the Marble Road or Sacred Way back towards the library, is only a small part of this main street of Ephesus, running from the Library to the Great Theater.  There are the remains of their elaborate water and sewer systems under paving stones, as well as ruts made by wheeled vehicles still visible on the marble road.  There was a large agora or marketplace which was the heart of Ephesus business and would have been surrounded by a colonnade and shops selling foods and crafts.


GLADIATORS

  There was a short re-enactment of a gladiator fight for the Emperor, complete with music, the different facets of the community, and period costume.  The Emperor and his women; the musicians; the gladiators; the businessmen selling their wares.  This re-enactment took place on Harbor Street, which was the grandest street in Ephesus, a legacy of the Byzantine era.  In its heydey there were 50 street lights that lit up the colonnades; only two other cities sported lights at this time.  There were shops, the Harbor Baths and huge columns at the harbor end.  It was the entrance from the port into Ephesus for traders and sailors.

GREAT THEATER

  

The Great Theater is considered to be the most magnificent structure of the ancient city.  It is located on the slop of Panayir Hill (the old city walls are still visible at the top), opposite Harbor Street.  It was first constructed in the Hellenistic Period in the 3rd century BC, but during the Romans it was enlarged to the greatness it is today.  It has a capacity of 25,000, with 3 sections divided by 2 walkways, an Emperor's box and marble seats with backs for the important guests.  There was a 3 story stage and an orchestra area. There were ornate water fountains on the exterior of the theater. The theater was not only used for concerts and plays, but religious, political and philosophical discussions, as well as gladiator and animal fights.  There are still concerts held there during the annual Ephesus Festival.  

TIME TO LEAVE

  After 3 hours of wondering the streets of Ephesus, they were beginning to get just a little congested....I don't even want to know what they are like in summer at the height of tourist season....and we decided it was time to make our exist and go look for a beach we could have a picnic at.  We were just standing there  looking back up the hill on Curetes Way and had made a comment to the effect "wouldn't it be funny if we saw someone we knew amongst all these people" when we heard "Geoff, Geoff Thomas, is that you?"  Sure enough, there was someone we knew...a fellow Australian, who lived in Turkey and worked with the World Bank and lived about an hour from us.  Small world...we arranged to pick him up later and enjoyed a nice dinner with him.